What were we 21st-century Jews — students spending a year living in Israel, the descents of Holocaust survivors — supposed to think about Berlin and its modern history? Berlin’s streets held past traumas for many of us. Suppressed memories. Recent stories. But they also introduced questions, and surprised some of us with new hopes. In our three days, we witnessed how much the city itself, the German population, and the German government have changed, while, at the same time, realizing how much we, as a people, have changed as well.